Landscaping

After all the long hours of hard work from the previous two months, early May is a magical time when you start to see all your hard work starting to pay off. All of your plants should be well on their way to showing the promise of future crops, but the work isn’t over just because everything has started to grow. Several things must be done to insure you plants overall health to maximize your crop’s potential, so regular inspections on a daily basis is always a good idea when it comes to your garden’s general maintenance. The most common problem with vegetable gardens will be dry conditions, weeds or insects. Living in the country as I do also causes other problems such as deer or rabbits damaging my plants at their early stages when the plants are young and tender. I like to check on my fields at least twice a day, (morning and evening), for plant damages due to insects or herbivores such as rabbits or deer, in order to catch these problems at their earliest stage, and take what ever measures are necessary to eliminate the problem. Once you get into a daily routine of checking your garden, it actually becomes an enjoyable part of your day that you will look forward to with each passing day!

Plant Care & Watering …

Many times, the difference between a successful vegetable garden and an unproductive vegetable garden will often be the amount of rainfall you receive each week. Two inches a week in most cases is more than enough to insure a bountiful harvest. Young developing plants will need more frequent rain or watering until their roots can develop deeply in the soil. Once the root systems are developed, vegetable plants can tolerate harsh dry conditions much more easily because they can obtain their moisture from the soil six to eight inches deep. Its not very often I have seen the soil dry at that depth, but in extreme conditions, it does happen.

In the area I live in ( N.E. Georgia ), we have just come through a period of record breaking drought that reached its peak in my last growing season , but the practices I implemented on my farm not only saved my crops, I managed to have one of the most productive farms around all summer long ! I have too many row crops to irrigate my entire fields during times of drought due to low water levels in my well, but by taking a few preventive measures early in the season I was able to keep my entire field vibrant and healthy while everyone else complained their fields just dried up and died.

Early in the season while my vegetable plants were developing their root systems, I would till between the rows at least once a week to keep down any weeds that would rob my vegetable garden from any available moisture, giving them a fighting chance in extreme conditions. Once the plants were developed and starting to bloom, I used a hoe to pull the soft soil between the rows close around the base of my plants, putting the root systems even deeper in the soil where they might find any remaining moisture in extreme drought conditions. It was a lot of work, but through my efforts, I had one of the few gardens around to survive the extreme drought without irrigation.

In order to insure my hill crops survival, early in the season while I was setting them out, I used two to three inches of mulch around each plant to help retain moisture. Because many of the hill crops require more water for proper production, I found it necessary to carry water to them every evening. I watered each plant individually, giving each about one quart of water in the evenings after the sun had set below the tree line, so the plants would have all night to make use of the water. The mulch helped prevent evaporation in the heat of the day, while making the soil richer for future garden plants. It sounds like an easy enough task, but I was using between forty and fifty gallons of water every evening to keep everything watered ! While vegetable gardening is an enjoyable task, many times you will find assuring its’ survival can be very labor intense task as well.

As a basic rule of thumb, let the natural rain cycle keep your garden watered and give the additional water in the evenings if you see them drooping or wilting. Avoid watering in the morning hours due to evaporation. Mulch around hill crops and add extra dirt around the roots of your row crops to retain moisture during hot summer months.

Weed Control …

Weed control in the garden is very important to insure the nutrients you are feeding your plants will not be robbed by fast growing grasses and weeds. I mention they are fast growing because if left unchecked for over a week, you will find that any weeds you may have let develop seem to grow twice as fast as your vegetable plants and most have the ability to reach seeding maturity within 4 to 6 weeks. Allowing the weeds to reach maturity will increase the problem 100 fold ! Preventive measures will need to be taken to minimize the problem of any type of weeds in your vegetable garden.

May is an excellent time to take care of the majority of weeds because as of yet they haven’t had sufficient time to mature. The vegetable plants you have planted are developing into strong healthy plants and are distinguishable from the weeds by this point so it makes it a lot easier to see what you want to keep out of the garden, and what shouldn’t be growing in your garden.

By tilling between the rows on a regular basis as weather conditions permit ( 7 to 10 days), you will find the problem is easily managed. Additional weeding will be necessary close to your vegetable plants, and for this process an old fashioned hoe works well if you have a talent with the tool. Although a hoe works well, you will find you damage some of your crops by trying to dig weeds that are too close to the plants you are trying to protect. I prefer pulling the weeds that are close to my plants rather than using a hoe to minimize damage to future crops. The best time to pull weeds is often after a rain shower or in the early morning while the dew is still present on your garden plants. Try to remove as much of the root system of the various weeds as possible to prevent future growth and discard them between the rows where the sunlight can wilt and kill the weeds. In extreme cases of weeds, it is often recommended to remove them from the garden entirely by gathering the pulled weeds in a 5 gallon bucket and adding them to your compost pile as long as they are young and without seeds.

When to Use Pesticides …

May is also an excellent time for pest control because the young tender plants seem to attract every type of insect known to man that thrives on young tender vegetation. By keeping a close eye on your garden for any plant damage on a daily basis, these types of problems can easily be eliminated with safe affordable pesticides that can be purchased at any lawn and garden center. Depending on which type of pesticide you choose will determine the type dispenser you will need to perform the task at hand.

I personally use a liquid poison ( Seven Concentrated Liquid Poison ) that I dilute with a gallon of water and disperse with a pump-up sprayer. This multi-purpose poison seems to eliminate any damaging insects I have in my region ( N.E. Ga.) and is a very affordable solution to any insect problems that may arise. If you prefer, ( Seven Dust ) is also an excellent pesticide, but you will need to purchase an old fashioned dust dispenser to apply evenly, and only use when the wind is not a factor. Either type of dispenser you choose is perfectly alright, but keep in mind, any type of pesticide you choose will need to be re-applied after each rainfall, or 7 to 10 days to treat new foliage that develops. Persistence and determination seem to be the key factors when fighting garden variety insects because of the multitude of harmful insects that can create problems in your vegetable garden. Once again, I stress the importance of early detection and resolution of any problems insects may be causing by simple checking your garden twice a day. Early detection means early prevention. You may loose a plant or two, but its better to see the problem early and take care of it before you loose the entire crop.

Although pesticides are a great way to insure your plants success against harmful insects, try to remember there are helpful insects such as bees, praying mantis, spiders and lady bugs that are better in the garden for its overall health. Bees are needed to pollinate the blooms so as a general rule I avoid spraying blooms on any of my vegetable plants directly. The praying mantis survives by eating smaller insects as much as the spider does, while lady bugs are known to eat tiny larva some insects will lay on the underside of certain plants leaves. Usually by July I am able to put away the sprayer and let nature take care of any problems unless extreme infestation arises.

Some farmers use fowl of various types to help prevent insect infestation, and depending on the crop you are growing usually determines the type bird you will use. Guineas are great for eating moths and grasshoppers and forage well in the garden, yard or woods that may surround your property. I personally prefer Bantam chickens for their small size which lowers the risk of damage to any of my plants due to over zealous attacks they may make on insects. Tobacco farmers train turkeys to work their fields to keep down the tobacco worms because you never want to use a pesticide of any type on tobacco plants. Finding solutions other than pesticides for insect control is a very smart way to improve the over-all health of our environment, so don’t be afraid to be creative by turning insect’s natural predators against them, as long as the solution isn’t creating an even larger problem.

Plant Supporting Devices …

Toward the end of May is an excellent time to decide which type of trellis or plant support device you will need to keep certain plants off the ground when their fruits become too heavy for the plant itself to support. Depending on the plant you intend to support will have a large determining factor as to which device works best for your situation.

Tomatoes

Depending on the size garden you have is a key factor when deciding which is the most efficient and affordable system to use. A small garden with only a few tomato plants, stakes or tomato cages seem to be the best solution. Stakes can be bought at any local hardware store or made from existing lumber you may have on hand, and driven a few inches from your plant to avoid damaging the roots no matter how large it has become. Tomato cages can be purchased at a number of local lawn and garden supply stores, and even some hardware stores, or purchase the wire and design your own cages to save a few dollars. Keep in mind, when using tomato cages its helpful to install these devices while your plants are at a smaller size to avoid damaging the plants.

For larger areas that have 30 plants or more, you may find it much less expensive to use a few fence posts in your row or rows of tomatoes and buy an inexpensive tie wire (about .00 for a 1 lb. roll) and run several strands from post to post. Later as the plants grow, you can tie the plants with a soft strip of cloth such as an old bed sheet that has been cut into strips, or loosely tie a string to attach the plant to the fence. Either type of device you choose will need to be accompanied with some type of cloth strips or string to loosely attach the plant to the device.

Cucumbers

I used to grow my cucumbers on the ground like everyone else. There were always some that would be missed each time I picked and by the time I found them they were to old to be of any use to me other than the seed. Another problem with allowing them to grow on the ground was the grass and weeds that seemed to take over once the plants had started to run and it was impossible to control the weed problem because of the damage I caused the plants I was trying to protect. A simple solution to both problems was a short fence along the row that I was able to install by simple driving a few stakes in the row and slipping the wire over the stakes in a fashion that held the wire in place six to eight inches off the ground. I would train the cucumber plants daily to follow the fence and inner-twine, which not only made the cucumbers easier to find to harvest, I was able to control the weeds ! I recommend placing the fence first and setting your plants afterword to avoid damaging the cucumber plants, but with a little help from an extra pair of hands, the task can be accomplished after the plants are in the ground. Just remember to do this early before the plant starts it’s runners so you can train the plant to the fence at an early stage.

Peppers

Many pepper plants won’t need any supporting devices be cause of their small size when fully grown. Chili and Cheyenne peppers are excellent examples of plants that don’t really need the added support, while other varieties such as bell and jalapeno can always use the extra support to help keep their fruits off the ground. Simple stakes and cloth or string ties seem to work best no matter how many plants you have. Simply drive a stake a few inches from the plant to avoid damaging the roots and tie the main stem of the plant to that stake as it grows. This is also handy when it comes to weed control and harvesting, so plan ahead for a healthy garden environment that is easy to manage and control.

Upcoming Issue …

The June edition of “How to Grow a Vegetable Garden Series” will cover topics such as “Continued Weed & Pest Control” , ” Additional Fertilizers or Plant Foods” , “When to Harvest” , and ” Ways to Preserve Vegetables “. For everything you need to know about “Growing a Vegetable Garden” , don’t miss a single monthly issue !

Ten Must Have Perennial Herbs to Grow

Most perennial herbs are easy to grow in most any soil that has been sufficiently enriched with wood ash and compost.  Make sure its crumbly in texture and has the correct light and moisture requirement for the herb.  Mints and Lemon balm do well in shade. Chives, tarragon, marjoram, mints, and lemon balm prefer moist soil.  Oregano, thyme, sage, rosemary, and lavender need well drained sandy dry soil. Lemon balm will also tolerate dry soil.

Chives are a hardy perennial plant and are one of the easiest herbs to grow, which reaches 12-18” high.  Chives prefer full sun and moist soil, but not too much water. Its leaves are dark green hollow spears that are usually one of the first plants to come up in early spring. Little purple flowers bouquets bloom in summer to make seed for the next year.  Garlic chives have white flower bouquets. These flower bouquets should be cut until later in the season, to keep the plant growing.  At the end of the season they can be left on to keep the bees happy and set seed.  A good mulch around the plant keeps down weeds.  Propagate by saving seed or by dividing the root ball.  Plants should be divided at least every three to four years to keep it healthy.  Leave about a dozen small bulbs per cluster and set them about 10” to 12” apart.  Harvest chives by snipping off the green part when they are 6 to 12” long.  Freeze them for winter use.  Some uses are soups, salads, and baked potatoes.  Chives deter aphids from the garden. 

Tarragon is a perennial plant native to Europe and Russia.  Tarragon needs moist soil and full sun and will tolerate infertile soil.  The European tarragon has better flavor, but is an infertile plant.  The Russian variety makes viable seed and is more weed like.  Tarragon grows 2’ to 3’ tall and spreads out late in the season.  It has long narrow dark green leaves on upright stalks sometimes with gray green flowers in the fall. European tarragon can be propagated by cuttings and division in the spring or fall. Divide every 3 or 4 years to keep the plant a manageable size.  Mulch around and over the plant roots in fall to protect from winter cold.  Harvest leaves throughout the growing season and dry for winter use.  Cut a few inches from the ground and hang in bunches for 10 to 14 days in a warm dry place. Tarragon is a good companion plant to most other garden plants. 

Marjoram is a tender perennial native to the warm moist climate of the Mediterranean. Marjoram needs full sun and rich moist soil to thrive. In colder climates it must be grown as an annual.  Marjoram is 12” to 18” high and has short branched squared stems with small oval gray green fuzzy leaves.  Small white or pink flowers grow from little balls that grow out of the leaf clusters in mid summer.  Mulch around the plants well to keep moisture in and weeds out.  Seeds can be sown directly in the garden when the weather is warm enough, usually taking about two weeks to germinate. Marjoram can also be propagated by cuttings, layering, or division.  Plants need to be about a foot apart.  Marjoram is very fragrant and dries well.  Harvest just before the flowers bloom by cutting the top half of the plant off.  Marjoram is used in stuffings and sausages. 

Mints are a hardy perennial which can easily get out of control in the yard or garden if not confined in some way.  They often reach 3’ in height and spread rampantly.  Peppermint, spearmint, pineapple mint, and orange mint are just a few of the many varieties of mints.  They prefer a moist rich soil and will do well in sun or shade.  Mint has square stems and tooth edged leaves.  Clusters of white or purple flowers bloom on the ends of the shoots from about midsummer on.  Propagate by seed, or division. Divide old plants every three or four years.  The leaves are very fragrant and may be harvested from spring through fall in warmer climates.  Mint can be dried by cutting the stalks a few inches above the ground as soon as the flower buds appear.  Hang to dry for 10 to 14 days in a warm dry spot.  Mints are used to flavor candies, teas, meats, vegetables, and potpourris.  Mint is a good companion plant to cabbage and tomatoes.  Spearmint deters aphids from the garden.  Peppermint and spearmint helps keep ants and flea beetles at bay and is good for keeping clothes moths out of the closet.  

Lemon Balm is a hardy perennial that grows to 48” high.  It can grow in full sun to shade and in wet or dry soil.  It has soft oval hairy yellow green leaves with scalloped edges and deep veined surfaces.  Lemon balm spreads by seed and by runners produced after flowering, but its not invasive unless planted too close to another plant.  You can plant seeds in fall or early spring, or propagate by cuttings or divisions.  In full sun, lemon balm will be small and bush-like, but in shade it will be much taller and grow more sparsely apart.  In summer the leaves will turn a duller green with white or pinkish flowers that make seed heads.  Plants will die back in winter, but come back in the spring.  The leaves have a mild lemon flavor and scent that can be used in salads, herbal teas, fruit punches, and potpourris. 

Oregano is a hardy perennial that is often called wild marjoram, because they are close relatives of the Mediterranean. Oregano grows from 18” to 30” tall with oval gray green hairy leaves and white or pink flowers in the fall.  The plant does best in full sun with sandy and well drained soil.  You may need to add a little lime or egg shell to the soil. Mulch around the plant and over it if winters are harsh.  Oregano may be propagated by seed, cuttings, or divisions, but seeds are slow to germinate.  Set plants at least 12” apart but up to 18” apart.  To dry oregano, cut the stems and a few inches from the ground in the fall, just before the flowers bloom.  Hang in bunches in a warm dry place for 10 to 14 days.  Oregano is a good companion plant to most other garden plants. 

Lavender is a hardy perennial that requires full sun and well drained soil. Lime the soil some time before planting. Lavender grows from 12” to 30” depending on the variety.  Propagate by using 2” to 4” cuttings from new growth in early summer or fall. You can propagate by seed, but they are very slow to germinate and very slow growing, as well.  The best way to propagate is by dividing three year old plants in the spring.  Plant any piece with roots, covering all of the woody stem with soil.  Lavender is great for potpourri, bath oils, and also has medicinal value.  Lavender helps keep aphids away from the garden and is good for keeping clothes moths out of the closet.    

 Rosemary is a tender perennial evergreen shrub that grows from 2’ to 6’ high in warm climates, but must be grown as an annual in colder climates or taken indoors. Rosemary does well in containers in northern climates, which allows it to be moved indoors to overwinter.  It has woody stems with needle like dull green leaves and blue flowers in the spring.  It thrives best in warm climates and prefers a well drained alkaline soil that has had some lime or wood ashes added to it.  Propagate rosemary by cuttings or divisions, as seeds are difficult to germinate.  Harvest anytime for fresh use, or dry it for a winter supply.  Rosemary is very fragrant and can be used for flavoring meat dishes and for bath oils and potpourris.  Rosemary can be planted near sage, beans, broccoli, cabbage, and carrots.  Rosemary helps keeps bean beetles, carrot flies, and cabbage moths away.

Sage is a hardy perennial, native to the Mediterranean.  It grows about 2’ high and has velvety textured gray green leaves with lavender flower spikes that bloom in the fall.  The stems become woody as the plant grows and should be cut back periodically to keep the plant producing. Sage needs full sun and a well drained soil. Enrich the soil with compost and add a little lime or wood ash if necessary.  Propagate by seed, cuttings, or division.  Harvest sparingly the first season and freely after that.  Leaves can be harvested at any time but at least a few times a year to keep the plant less woody.  To dry, hang in bunches in a warm dry place for 10 to 14 days.  Sage is mostly used to flavor meats and stuffings. Sage can be planted near rosemary, carrots, and cabbage.  Keep away from cucumbers.  Sage helps keep carrot flies and cabbage moths away.

 Thyme is an aromatic perennial herb that bees love, and is native to the Mediterranean.  There are several varieties such as creeping thyme, common thyme, and lemon thyme. Thyme is one of the shortest herbs, only about 8 to 10” tall with small oval gray green leaves and pink or violet flowers in the fall. The stems become woody as the plant grows older. Thyme thrives best in full sun with sandy dry soil.  It’s great to plant between stepping stones or in a rock garden.  Propagate thyme by seed, cuttings, or divisions, but seeds are difficult to germinate. Plants should be spaced about 18” apart.  Fertilize with a good compost and divide woodier plants in early spring.  Harvest leaves throughout the growing season and dry for winter use.  To dry, cut just above the ground when the flowers start to bloom and hang in bunches in a warm dry place for 10 to 14 days. Harvest sparingly the first year and freely after that.  Thyme is used in stuffings, along with rosemary, and sage. Plant thyme with cabbage, which helps keep cabbage moths away. 

Do It Yourself Gardening: Joseph shows you how to mulch your garden.
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Spring in the south seems to unfold between late February and Mid-March, and as the flowers and trees start to bud out and bloom, its a constant reminder that time “Marches” on and it will soon be time to plant again. Being prepared for the event is always a good idea, because the size area you intend to plant can be very daunting or even tiresome if you try to do everything at once. Many will find the entire task too overwhelming and decide against even starting a garden, but for those people like myself, the challenge is well worth the rewards. In this “How to Grow a Garden” series, I hope to enlighten as well as educate the novice gardener to the point of confidence that the task of “Growing a Vegetable Garden” becomes a joy filled hobby instead of a relentless task.

Whether you are planning a small box garden, a backyard garden, or planting a field, it really doesn’t matter. The techniques used are basically the same when it comes to growing vegetables. The only thing that really changes is the equipment you use and the volume you hope to produce. This simple monthly guide I have decided to produce this year is designed with the novice gardener in mind, although it will be filled with helpful tips that even the more experienced gardeners will grow to appreciate. My garden will be grown with organic fertilizer (rabbit manure compost) this year, with pictures and a step by step guide to help anyone reproduce their garden with the same incredible results. Many of you may not be able to use the same fertilizer because I raise rabbits and make my own compost, but many commercial fertilizers will work just as well. I’m getting back to basics with my project and hope to have a large number of people that will choose to do the same.

March seems to be the perfect time to plan and prepare in my region (Northeast Georgia) . Although the weather has started to warm a bit, the soil is still too cold for planting. I like to use this time of year to decide what I will be growing and where I will plant each crop as well as get some of my plants started from seed. By starting my own plants from seed, it not only saves money, but it allows me the opportunity to evaluate the quantity and quality of the plants that are available to me, which in turn decides the allotted space required for each crop. From years of experience I’ve discovered that proper planning is one of the most important tasks to be performed.

Every garden should contain a wide variety of the vegetables you enjoy eating, but I always find it very enjoyable to try something new and interesting each year that I may not be familiar with. Experience seems to be the best teacher, and by using the garden as my classroom, its easy to decide what crops do well in my soil and climate conditions.The crops that do well always seem to find a spot in my garden plot for years to come, while those that don’t do so well may never be planted again, but at least I can honestly say,”I gave it a try,”.

Its important to know the difference between “Set” crops and “Row” crops before you start, so I will try to explain. “Set” crops are any plants you set out from seedlings such as tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, peppers, watermelons etc., because these plants are usually started from seed in starter cups then placed in prepared “Hills” to allow proper spacing and general care. “Row” crops on the other hand, are seeds dropped directly in prepared rows to begin their cycle of life. Common “Row” crops are corn, beans, peas, beats, potatoes etc.. It always helps for me to visualize the size of the grown row crops so that I can plant the taller crops to the north side of my garden to prevent them from overshadowing the shorter crops. With this in mind, visualize the corn on the north side of the plot, while potatoes, beans and peas should be planted south of the corn. This allows for more even sunlight to embrace your entire garden.

When planning a new garden plot that has never been tended before, there are a few factors to keep in mind. Lighting is very important when deciding where to place your new garden plot on your property. Most vegetable plants will require a minimum of 8 hours of direct sunlight each day for proper development, so its important to watch the available sunlight in the area you are thinking about planting by studying the surrounding trees that may be present. Smaller trees that stand only 15 to 20 feet on the southern region of your garden plot don’t seem to cause any real problems, and added morning shade can even be beneficial to certain plants allowing more time for them to take advantage of the morning dew or the previous nights rain, while taller trees to the south, east, or west may cause too much shade for your new garden and will need to be removed.

Terrain is another factor when choosing your new garden plot that must be considered. Excessive trees that need to be removed to create your new garden plot can be very time consuming and expensive to remove A hillside grade too steep may cause erosion problems once the plot has been cleared and plowed and will need to be terraced with any rock or debris you remove during the process of clearing, reducing the slope of the hill to create a more workable garden area along the hillside, which in turn reduces the chance for unwanted erosion problems. Just keep in mind that new garden plots are full of surprises, and unless you have lived on the property your entire life and are aware of what is just beneath the surface of the soil, there’s’ no telling what you might find once you begin to clear and dig. Any roots, rocks, stump-age or debris will need to be removed and placed in your terrace to help prevent any erosion problems that may develop from heavy rains during the onset of your project. If no terracing is needed, these discarded items can be used in any troubled areas you may have on your property where erosion is a problem. Once the area is cleared, its always a good idea to hire someone with a tractor and turning plow for the initial ground breaking to save countless hours of heartache and work. You will find it was money well spent and will allow you more time for the rock, root, or debris removal..

Depending on the soil type you have encountered will determine what needs to be done next to establish a garden plot that can be worked every year with less effort and increasingly richer soil. Red clay is very common here in Northeast Georgia, and unless you add larger biodegradable components such as pine bark, mulch, manure and leaves, the soil has a tendency to compact during normal garden work. The pine bark, mulch, manure and leaves not only make your garden plot rich in nutrients as they decompose, it also keeps the soil from compacting so tightly together, and by continuing this regiment each year for the first five years or so, you will find that with each passing year, the soil is easier to work and your vegetables will increase in production. It takes time and effort to create a rich garden plot, but can be time and effort well spent, with the reward of a lifetime full of fresh vegetables and fruits that can be enjoyed by the entire family each and every year.

Starting Your Seedlings …

Late March is a great time to to start all your seedlings because the upcoming month will be when most are used. Its important to have a fine soil compost prepared, but for the beginner there are many readily available mixtures you can purchase at you local lawn and garden supply store, and if you aren’t sure exactly what you need, just tell the attendant there what you are trying to accomplish, and they will be more than happy to assist you in selecting a proper mixture. Individual containers or partitioned trays will be needed to keep the roots from binding together and stunting your plants when you separate them at planting time. Root damage at this stage of the young plant’s life may stunt or even kill the plant, so plan ahead to prevent unwanted root damage. Paper egg cartons or flats are very effective and en-expensive to obtain. Local diners that serve breakfast throw them out with their trash every day and are happy to save them for you, especially if you are a regular patron. The paper material not only separates your young plants roots, it also allows excess water to drain or evaporate more quickly to prevent the drowning of your plants. Place a small nail hole in the bottom of each section of the egg trays to ensure drainage of excess water.

Choosing the right location to sprout your seedlings is always a big help. Look for an area that is abundant with sunlight and has access to a water hose, as they will not only need warm sunlight to sprout, they will also need to be checked daily for dryness and watered when needed. Misting lightly works best to prevent unearthing your seeds or breaking the young seedlings with a heavy stream of water once they have sprouted. It is equally important to have space available to move your trays indoors in case of frost or freeze. Temperatures 38 degrees Fahrenheit or above are acceptable, but once the temperature gets any lower, there is always a chance of damage or death to the young sprouts. So once again, plan ahead and be prepared for any situation that may arise. A lot of time and effort will be waisted if you neglect to care for your seedlings on a daily basis.

Start by filling the egg trays or which ever container you choose with the soil mixture you have prepared or purchased (do not pack tightly), allowing space to add a half inch or so of soil on top of the seeds after dropping. Once the soil is in the containers, its time to drop the seed. I always like to put 2 seeds in each compartment to compensate for seed that are faulty and may not sprout. This helps to insure I get at least one plant in each compartment. I’ve found that where both seed sprout, the plants seem to thrive from the competition trying to reach the nutrients in the soil and promoting a healthier root system. Once the seed have been dropped, its time to cover them lightly with more soil to a depth not over 1/2 inch, and watered. If you are sprouting more than one type of plant, its always a good idea to mark you trays in a way that lets you know what is supposed to be in that particular tray. This is very helpful if the trays have to be moved indoors and then placed back outside to insure you don’t get them mixed up. Once again, a little planning ahead may alleviate a lot of headaches a little farther down the road.

Once the trays are prepared, all that really needs to be done is watering on a daily basis, but if the temperature aren’t co-operating or over abundant rain is a problem, here is a simple solution to both problems. For colder than normal weather, try placing a sheet of clear plastic directly over the trays and weighing it down in a fashion that will secure the plastic should the wind blow. This causes a greenhouse effect and moisture will condensate on the plastic sheet. The soil will warm more quickly for the seeds that haven’t sprouted yet. Should too much rain be a problem, place something taller than your trays along the middle of the containers to create a tent that will shed water away and not press the plastic down in the trays as it fills with rain water. Remember, seeds that stay in cold damp soil for too long of a period have a tendency to rot in the ground. Its very important that the soil not only receive sunlight, it needs to be warm as well. Most seeds will sprout in this method within 7 to 10 days depending on the depth of the seed. Planting them too deeply has basically the same result as the soil not being warm enough… They just won’t sprout ! After 14 days with still no seedlings showing, it may be time to replant and evaluate what you did wrong the first time and make any corrections that may be needed. Perhaps the seed you used the first time were too old or faulty, so always be sure you use fresh quality seeds for the best results.

Preparing The Soil …

While waiting for my seeds to sprout, I always prepare my soil in late March and early April for the upcoming planting that will be done in mid-April. Its just something I’ve always done because of the region (Northeast Georgia) I live in. Not only the trees and flowers have started budding and blooming, but many of the weeds and grasses have started sprouting in my fields. Plowing them in at an early stage eliminates many from ever growing back and in turn makes my job of weeding a lot easier in months to come. Because of my fall preparations (plowing in the old garden in November) , the task becomes less time consuming and labor intense. The soil is already soft from the fall till and winter freezes that have a tendency to expand the soil near the surface, so the most important thing I have to worry about is the water content.

Winter and early spring are typically our wettest months, so I pay close attention to long range weather forecasts that give predictions 10 days in advance. I’ve found that this is the best way to plan my “Till” time between late winter and early spring weather systems. Light rains are not much problem, but when it rains for several days I know the soil will need time to dry some before tilling. Usually 3 to 4 days is a sufficient drying time, but not always. Warmth and wind play a big factor when it comes to drying the soil to the proper tilling consistency. It needs to be moist to allow for deeper tilling, but at the same time, if the soil is too damp it has a tendency to stick together in clumps that will later dry into hard rock-like clods that are near impossible to break up. Experience seems to be the best teacher when it comes to tilling. Damp soil tills best, but its important to be sure the soil falls away from the tines of the tiller in a granular fashion, breaking the soil to a somewhat even consistency. Should you find the soil is clodding, put away the tiller for another day and allow the soil more drying time.

Once you have determined the soil is dry enough to till, its time to put your back into it and get started preparing the soil. Living in the mountains as I do, its important to till your plot in the correct direction to help prevent any erosion that may occur during heavy rains. If your garden is positioned on a slop of any kind, its important to remember to plow along the slope, stepping up or down the slope with each pass rather than making rows up and down the hill. Rows of loosened soil placed in a fashion that runs up and down a hill will wash away rich topsoil when heavy rains fall, exposing the roots of your plants. Rows placed along the slope have a tendency to hold the water back, not only holding the soil from erosion, but your plants will benefit more from the water they have helped retain.

Most tillers have a variable speed setting on the throttle to allow you to till as fast or as slow as you would like. You will find that the slower you work, the more efficient your time will be spent. Fast speeds have a tendency to bounce the tiller out of the soil causing you to have to “Manhandle” your equipment to keep it under control, creating a lot of sore muscles and unnecessary backaches, as well as not performing the deep tilling of the soil which we hope to accomplish. Most soil should be tilled to a depth of 8 inches or greater to achieve the best results for your plants. Soil that is tilled too shallow does not allow your root systems to spread properly and reach deep moisture when conditions are hot and dry, resulting in your plants dieing when the weather becomes too harsh and dry for them. Deeply tilled soil also requires less watering for those of you that plan to irrigate in the dryer months. Its important to take your time to accomplish the goal of a deep till to increase vegetable production and ensure the plant’s overall health and longevity.

Depending on what size garden you are preparing will determine which size tiller you should be using. For smaller plots, a 3 horse power tiller works just fine, but for larger plots, I prefer at least a 5 horse power model. If you do not own a garden tiller, there are rental companies that will rent you the equipment on a daily or weekly basis until you decide if this is something you would like to do on a yearly basis and purchase a garden tiller of your own. I use my garden tiller several times a year to keep the soil between my rows soft and weed free while allowing the rain to soak in rather than run off. This seems to work well as long as the plants haven’t overgrown the middle of the rows to the point that I am damaging my crops and plants while tilling. These are times when a “Hoe” works best, but that’s another story. There are even small handheld tilling devices that are very affordable for breaking up the soil in small raised beds, although I use a “Mantis” tiller for the small areas I have that need tilling.

For new garden plots, its important to loosen and remove any grasses or large weeds that may be growing there. Many urban homes have large enough lawns to prepare a garden spot, but the soil underneath the grass may be too poor or compacted to make the task worthwhile. For these areas, I recommend a raised bed system that can be constructed out of 2″x 10″ or 2″x 12″ pressure treated materials, then filled with a nice mixture of mulch, compost and topsoil. You can use your imagination to make these plots as small or large as you like. It really all depends on you and what you hope to accomplish from your efforts. It seems the first year is always the hardest because you are not only unfamiliar with vegetable gardening, but there always seems to be hidden stumbling blocks along the way to discourage you from accomplishing your ultimate goal. Try not to get too discouraged when small troubles arise, and try to remember that your garden is also your classroom. What we learn this year will only make future gardens more productive, and will soon become a more enjoyable hobby for you. Your entire family will be enjoying the healthy benefits of freshly picked and prepared vegetables straight from your garden to your table, giving you a sense of pride and accomplishment for all your hard work.

Upcoming Issue …

April’s issue of “How to Grow a Vegetable Garden Series”, will cover in step by step detail of, “How to Clear an Overgrown Field” to prepare for the planting season. We will also have helpful tips and guidelines for planning as well as planting your summer crops. Learn how to prepare your “set” hills for the best results as well as “row” crop spacing and preparations. Learn how to make your own compost, and mulching advice for your hill crops to retain water in the hot summer months to come. If you are serious about growing a bountiful vegetable garden, don’t miss an issue of “How to Grow a Vegetable Garden Series” for the 2010 season !

I like to garden and really the only thing that frustrates me is the cold of winter because that means I can not be outside growing my vegetables, herbs and other plants.  If you are thinking about getting into gardening here are some ideas and tips to get you going.

Start off Small

Most new gardeners give up because things don’t work out as planned (or as hoped) or they try to do too much in a single growing season.  I was like this.  My first year with a vegetable garden I think I tried to plant every seed under the sun (and some in the shade).  Needless to say with too much planted a lot of my plants suffered for it as did the quality of fruits and vegetables.  Pick 2 to 3 items you would really love to grow and go with that.  In future seasons you can add on as you get better and more efficient at it.

Maintain Your Soil

Make sure you soil is well taken care of and that means that it is moist and well aerated.  Walking on your soil will pack it down and that’s not good for your plants.  I use one of those garden weasel tools to help break up any hard soil and allow the air to flow.  But also you want to keep in mind to NOT overwork the soil either.  Having some smaller clumps is a good thing as well.

Water

Most people think that you need to give your plants water everyday but less at a time.  That is the furthest thing from the truth (for most plants anyway).  Giving plants a good soaking, but not a drowning, less frequently is much better.  This way your plants must reach deep for those water pockets and that creates strong roots.

Compost

Don’t forget your compost pile or food waste for compost.  Compost adds much needed nutrients to your soil that gets depleted every growing season.  You can compost any type of organic matter, such as leaves, grass, branches and so on.  Keep them in a pile and using a pitch fork turn the pile over every so often.  Soon you will have a nice pile of compost that you mix in with your soil.  If that is too much work for you, take your left over food scraps and bury them about 2 feet down in your planting area.  Worms will eat the compost and their castings will give you some really great compost.  Just remember to turn your over before and after every growing season to bring that compost towards the surface.

Mulch

Using mulch is a great way to reduce the amount of weeds your garden will see and because mulch is a biodegradable organic material it will also add nutrients to your soil.  You could go buy mulch but why would you do that?  Instead shred up some newspaper or cardboard and you are all set.

Say no to Chemicals

One thing I do is avoid using any type of chemical fertilizer.  I do this because there is no need.  The environment provides everything your plant will require to grow, you just have to give it to it such as everything we already mentioned, compost, mulch, water, etc.  I won’t go into it in this article but you can actually double use your compost.  First as a way to brew some compost tea and then when its done brewing you spread your compost out over your plants.  Compost tea is far better than any type of miracle grow or chemical product you will find.  Do a Google search on compost tea and you will see what I mean.

Spending just a few minutes everyday at your garden, I like to visit my garden for about 10 minutes in the morning before I go to work, will do wonders not only for your garden but for your sanity.  Gardens are very relaxing and it is exciting to watch plants grow that you nurtured from a seed.

About the Author:
Mr. Tucker is a regular contributor on Bukisa, an online community for writers that pays them for their articles.  You can also follow Bruce on Twitter.

Do not forget you can use this article on your own website or blog by simply copying and pasting the code from the “Syndicate this Article” section located on the right.

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Now, before we begin, please refrain from using this guide to natural Washington growing psychedelic mushrooms, to do anything illegal. It is perfectly legal to study them as a hobby, and I am more than happy to share what I know about them, for fellow myco studiers!

Washington state is home to some of the most interesting and amazing natural substances around. Most of this was due to the tectonic plates rubbing together just the right way several thousand years ago. It has given our state the largest variety of forest types, mountains, meadows, crystals, plant life and Mushrooms.

Psychedelic mushrooms are even more fun to hunt for, not because of their psychedelic properties, but because they are harder to find and recognize. It takes a lot of patience to recognize several hundred species of poisonous and eatable mushrooms, to be able to uncover the mystery that is psychedelic mushrooms. The hunt and hobby of finding them in nature, is enough of a spiritual experience for most.

So with the spirit of the hunt, let’s go over some awesome psychedelic breeds that you can find naturally in Washington state. Be careful, and make sure to dress appropriately for the wet weather. If you can, always bring a friend with you, as it is much more fun, and easier not to get lost when you have a companion.

PSILOCYBE AZURESCENS

This social species is often found in the fall and winter, layered throughout deciduous mulch. It’s cap is usually brown or carmel covered with a dark blue or black area at the tip of the cap. The cap is has a broad umbo, which usually gives it the strong appearance of an umbrella. It is smooth to the touch, and often feels very thick or viscous when it’s still wet. The psilocybe azurescen caps tend to flatten out as they age and lose some of their color, so you’ll often see what looks like somewhat different mushrooms together in the same patch. You’ll notice that the cap rarely is smaller then one inch, or larger then four inches. The gills of the azurescens rise up in an ascending way, and are usually brown or black where injured, and they tend to have a white outer area where the gills met the cap. The spore prints should be purple or black in color, as with most psilocybe species. The stem of this species tends to be around three to six inches long, white for most of the stem, while often having a brown around the base of the stem. As with most psilocybe’s, the stem bruises blue. The browning covers more of the stem as the mushroom ages. The stem has a moist and silky feel to it, and when the stem is mature, it’s hollow. Azurescens tend to have some rather hardy mycelium around it’s base, often appearing like roots, holding debris together. This species does not usually have a very apparent smell when fresh, though many say it tastes very bitter.  The psilocybe azurescens is a dead wood loving sort of mushroom, and can often be found habitating wood chips and fallen trees. They especially love loose sandy soils that contain lots of wood chips and splinters, making those areas prime targets for finding these mushrooms. You will most often find these mushrooms in beachy areas, especially along the coast of Washington and Oregon. They especially love the dune grasses along coast, where rotting wood can be found.

PSILOCYBE BAEOCSYTIS

This conifer loving mushroom, is one of the few psychedelics you will find under our great evergreen trees. Most other psychedelic mushrooms have a sweet tooth for deciduous trees, though the Baeos prefer the bitter-sweet content of soils rich in conifer mulch. They are also often found cohabitating with rhododendrons or rose bushes. Sometimes, you might even find a few fruiting on douglas fir cones, or growing through peat moss. Though there is often coniferous mulch underneath. They can occassionally be found on lawns, pastures or in conifer forests.  The caps are usually between a half inch and three inches around, and can vary between being convex (umbrella like) shaped to conical (cone like) shaped. Interestingly, Baeos have inward turning caps when they are little, which spread out through maturity, and they tend to smell a bit like cooking flour. When you find a baeocsystis, you’ll notice that they usually have rippled caps. Baeos often get the name “olive mushroom” for their dark olive brown color. Though they can also be a buff brown color, and once in a blue moon, you might even see one in a steel blue tone. When a baeo ages, it turns to a chalky or milky white color. This species bruises very easily in a blue-ish color, as it has very thin flesh. Cinnamon brown to grayish is the coloring you’ll often sight on the gills. The gills can take on an adnate shape, though sometimes they are sinuate instead. Spore prints from a baeo are going to be more purple brown and mango shaped. The stems are pale or brown, and usually have little lengths of white in them. Root like mycelium can also be found around the base of these mushrooms. Remember to be careful, as the loose fibers that make up the steam are easy to break. You will sometimes find a veil ring around the stem, The veil disappears as the mushroom ages, so you often won’t find a ring if the mushrooms have had time to mature. Baeos are often easier to notice, as they are commonly found near other psychedelics such as the Stuntzii or Cyanescen. This also means they can be found near several strains of Galerina, so do be careful. The season for Baeos is usually between August and December. They prefer the cooler days, though often sprout in warmer temperatures then other psychedelic varieties.

CONOCYBE SMITHII

This is a tricky species to hunt down, due to it’s close resemblance with many poisonous species. Be careful, and make sure you know your posionous species as well as you know the psychedelics, to avoid any mistakes. You’ll find that the smithii can be convex or conic, and as it matures it spreads out more. The caps are usually light yellow brown, golden brown or cinnamon-brown. They get lighter as they age, and as they dry. The smithii cap is usually wet enough that it glistens even in lower light. The gills can be brownish with white edges, or a pale yellow-greyish color. The stems are usually between a half inch and two inches long. Be careful with the stem, it is fragile and quickly bruises blue even with gentle handling. The base of the stem will often turn a bluish-green color with age, while the rest of the stem is usually white, and you won’t often find a ring around the stem. You’ll find that the spores are often cinnamon brown, which still makes them difficult to distinguish from poisonous breeds, so make sure you know exactly what you have picked. If you are looking in swampy areas, bogs or ditches, then you are looking in the right place to find a smithii. They really prefer peat moss as well, which makes mossy areas a prime suspect for housing smithii’s.

PSILOCYBE CYANESCENS

This is one of the most commonly hunted variety of psychedelics in the pacific northwest. It is often known as the “golden teacher”, and is a rather potent mushroom when picked in the wild. Even though it is a very common mushroom in this area, it is still very difficult to find. Mostly through a change in mulches used in the area, though also because they can be tough to distinguish from several galerina species that are very poisonous. Cyanescens love rhododenrons, roses, ivy, strawberry plants, sawdust, dune grass, maple leaves, straw, rotten wood and especially alder wood chips and bark mulch. Because of this, they are more common in urban areas than most other psychedelic mushrooms, and are rarely found in the wild. You’ll never find them under conifer or evergreen trees unless the ground is protected from the needles. They don’t mind huddling close together on the edges of lawns that have wood chips on them, or growing around twigs. Cyanescens are a very social strain, and this is one of the characteristics that tends to set it apart from “most” poisonous strains. Cyanescens growing stongly and numerously. If it was a poor fruiting season, there might only be a few in an area, though this is rare enough that it’s better to leave those, instead of risking a mistake for a galerina. Cyanescens are very picky, as they prefer to only fruit when the temperature is right. They can stand it being too cold or too warm, and are often found when it’s very foggy around, and the ground is releasing a lot of heat. The average temperature is around 50* F. The caps are usually chestnut brown to carmel colored, and not orange. They will pale as they mature and sometimes become slightly yellowish. They bruise an obvious blue-green or cyan color when handled, and is between a half inch to two inches around. It is very commonly known as the “wavy cap”, and it has a clear give away when in it’s prime, for having very wavy caps. The gills are can be light brown or purple-ish brown, and the spores are brown-purplish. These mushrooms also smell like cooking flour, which is another great way to identify them. The stems of the cyanescens are usually white, and always hollow. The stems are usually slightly wavy and are usually a half inch to an inch long. Cyanescens are often only found in October between the first and third frosts. Sometimes they can be found as early as september, or as late as December, though it depends on the temperature. They are also picky about the mulch beds they use, as they will move on once the nutrients in one area are all eaten up. This usually takes between two and three years.

PSILOCYBE CYANOFIBRILLOSA

This mushroom is often known as the “rhododendron psilocybe” because it has a great relationship with rhododendrons, especially in coastal areas. It can also be found near bush lupines, though this is not as common in Washington. The cyanofibrillosa bruises blue and it’s hairs also turn blue with age. These mushrooms are often mistaken for cyanescens, though there are some clear distinctions to be noticed. The caps are somewhat wavy, though not as much as cyanescens. The caps become flater with age, andend to turn whitish in color. When fresh they are usually a deep chestnut or carmel brown. They are thick when wet, and often have a mucus membrane that can be seen when the cap is slowly separated. The gills are light greyish when they are young, become more purplish-brown with age, and have a white edge to them. The spores are purple-brown as well. The stems are white, and between one inch to four inches long. Root like mycelium will be attached at the base of the stem, so make sure to pull them up from the dirt and not pick them half way up the stem. The base of the stem is usually thicker then the rest of it, and there is often a little bit of a veil ring left around the stem. This interesting mushroom usually grows between September and December, and prefers soils rich in deciduous wood debris. It enjoys alder mulch, willow, fir sawdust and obviously, rhododendron mulch. It is also commonly found in floud plains and really likes wet mushy areas.

There are thousands of interesting mycologist specimin in the pacific northwest, which means that any good hobby hunteould spend a lot of time doing their research. Being able to identify psychedelic and poisonous mushrooms, is a must have for any hunter seeking eatable mushrooms to add color to their meals.

Strawberries are a small fruit that can be successfully grown in the home garden. With recent fuel and economic concerns, growing food at home has become important. Here is what you need to know about growing strawberry plants in your home garden.

When selecting a site for planting strawberries, it’s important to avoid swampy soils and soils with poor drainage. The best soil to grow strawberries in would be a well-drained soil high in organic content with a good water-holding capacity. A sandy or otherwise quick drying soil can work provided you water often. Avoid growing strawberries in frost pockets to minimize spring frost injury to flowers.

Although strawberry plants can be planted any time during the growing season, spring is the best time to plant strawberries. With spring planting, the strawberry plants get planted during conditions that favor growth. The strawberry plants also have time to produce early runners. Studies have shown that daughter strawberry plants that develop earlier in the season fruit better the following year. A strawberry plant only fruits well for about the first two or three seasons, so plants that grow from strawberry plant runners are the future of your strawberry patch.

The best source of strawberry plants is from a reliable nursery. You want your strawberry plants to be healthy and disease free. Some nurseries sell strawberry plants in packs. Look for strawberry plants with white, healthy roots. Avoid plants with black or dark brown or soft roots. There are several varieties of strawberries; planting more than one variety of strawberry in the garden can extend the harvest. Avoid wild strawberry plants unless you are satisfied growing tiny fruit.

Although Strawberry plants grow best in soil with a pH of 6.0, they will tolerate a wide range of soil pH. When preparing the garden, add any compost, fertilizer, limestone, etc to the soil. A soil test can be purchased and used if you desire to know what your soil pH is.

When planting strawberry plants, care should be taken to improve the survival of the plants. In cases of bare root plants, avoid exposing the plant roots to the air for any length of time. Spread the roots out in the hole and fill the soil in around the roots. Root length of four to five inches is sufficient. Prune long roots rather than have them fold within the hole. Pack the soil lightly around the strawberry plants to eliminate air pockets. Planting depth of strawberries is so that all the roots are below the soil, yet the bud is above the soil. For plugs, loosen the roots that have begun to encircle the outside of the plug and be mindful of your planting depth. Be sure to water the transplanted strawberry plants after planting.

During the first year, take care to water the strawberry plants thoroughly to get them established. Times in which irrigation is important are in fall when the next season’s fruiting buds are forming and in spring as the young fruit are developing.

Winter mulch is important in colder climates. Research has found that if the crowns of the strawberry plants are exposed to too much cold, yields can be impacted. A mulch of straw or pine needles is desirable. A good source of straw mulch is recycling the straw bales Garden centers sell as a Halloween decoration. Mulch should be three inches deep. Delay mulching as long as possible; yet make sure mulch is applied before night temperatures reach 20 degrees or below. Leaves can be used in a pinch, but are undesirable, as they tend to blow away or compact over the plants. Pull back mulch away from the crowns of strawberry plants in spring when growth begins. Mulch can be left around the strawberry plants provided the mulch is pulled back from the crowns. The benefit of doing this is the fruit will rest on the mulch, resulting in a cleaner, disease free fruit.

If there is danger of spring frost, floating row cover can be placed over the plants during the night as a protection. Other options include sheets, blankets, five-gallon pails, etc. Make sure these are removed the following morning after it has started to warm.

Harvest time is determined by fruit color. Strawberry fruits continue to grow until the fruit is fully red, delay harvest of firm strawberry varieties until fruit are completely red. It may be necessary to pick softer varieties a bit earlier, but in most cases, the fruit will be eaten immediately so this is not a concern for the home gardener. A half-inch to inch of stem should remain on the fruit to enhance preservation. Strawberries do not store well and should be eaten within a week.

Maintain your strawberry plants by removing any plants that are old and have declined production. Thin out daughter plants when they become too crowded. Daughter plants can be transplanted into a new patch or used to replace old strawberry plants. With the proper care, your strawberry patch will reward you for many years.

Source/original: www.associatedcontent.com/article/1670812/grow_strawberries_in_the_home_garden.html?cat=32

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I often advocate the use of mulches for your tomato garden. A good mulch used correctly can be of great benefit. However there are both good and bad mulches and right and wrong ways to apply them. Knowing the differences are vital and getting mulching right will have a dramatic effect on your tomato garden.

can protect your soil from erosion by heavy rains

wards against soil compaction

discourages weed growth

insulates the soil evening out temperature effects

helps regulate water loss, evening out watering requirements somewhat

improves soil composition (if organic)

helps isolate the soil from the leaves and reduce the likelihood of soil borne diseases spreading

There are various materials that you can make mulch with. The key really is to match the crop to the mulch. Some of the more usual and unusual mulches (with comments listed) are…

Compost – has the benefit of adding organic matter to the ground but looks unsightly and if it contains moulds and spores can be more detrimental than beneficial. Not strictly a mulch.

Lawn Clippings – can contain grass seeds if it is from a late spring growing and as you want a garden not a second lawn this is not a desirable thing. Also if the lawn has been treated with Herbicide or Weed Killer it will not be a pretty thing. If you want to use grass clippings then let them dry out completely first.

Leaves – be wary about using leaves that have not been aged for a considerable period (at least nine months) as the phenols which inhibit growth may still be present.

Sawdust – again it is best if it is allowed to decompose for a year before use and you will require additional Nitrogen if using it.

Straw – messy and can be hard to apply but is an excellent mulch. Not free you have to buy it. Definitely do not use hay though as it is full of weed seeds.

Wood Chips – same as sawdust essentially with the added issue that they should not be dug into the soil, which can be an issue.

Newspaper – quite commonly used. Will fly away very easily so usually needs to be watered in and requires a heavier mulch over the top which seems to be self defeating to me.

Black Plastic – environmentally unfriendly. Best to put in down before transplanting and then cut holes to lay plants in however if this seems attractive then you should consider…

Landscape Fabric – easier to work with than plastic and lets natural water through. Better still though is…

Bio-degradable Weed Mats – all the benefits of plastic and fabric and completely eco-friendly.

Pea Straw – Adds good organic matter. Decomposes quickly and can be sown in at the end of the season.

Barley Straw – Softer than Pea and other straws and absorbs water more readily.

Mulch is not difficult to apply generally speaking as it is essentially just surrounding the plants with the materials used. However there are some points that definitely need to be followed…

The first and most important point is don’t mulch until the plant has established itself. Mulching fresh seedlings is not good. Remember that one of the effects of mulching is to retard new growth, which is how it helps to control weeds. Obviously this is counter productive for fresh seedlings.

Weed your garden prior to applying any mulch. For the same reasons as the first point we want to make it hard for weeds to establish themselves.

Put a good amount of mulch around each individual plant a two or three inch layer is good.

DO NOT place the mulch closer to the plant stem than three inches. Mulch right up against the stem can encourage rot.

Barley or Pea Straw would be a top choice or Bio-degradable mats. Landscape fabric is good to lay from scratch if you are setting up your garden and can be easier to manage. Unfortunately none of these are free so your budget will be a consideration in your choice.

The subject of mulching should be a simple one. If you understand the reasons that you are using mulch and the requirements of your particular vegetable then simply pick one that you like which will fit the bill and go for it.

One last thing… remember that this article is written with tomatoes in mind and the information will not apply to all vegetables. Good growing…

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Today, a lot of people prefer growing weed at home. Many of them have also realized that learning to Home Grow weed is fairly easy. There are many people who don’t understand that they can grow the ultimate, which is hydro weed. In this article, we will let you know about growing weed at home with hydroponics. The plants usually grow faster in a hydroponics system. You can always use hydroponic system to to Home Grow weed.

Considering about the hydroponic systems the easiest systems include the wick system and the reservoir systems. These aren’t any real system like as a pump and drain; however, the basic premise is that the water will wick to where you require it to go. But it is necessary to do it in correct manner, holes need to be cut in the pots after the wicks are cut as well as placed inside. Do remember to grow it in proper manner, there has to be a spacer at the bottom for keeping the plant above the reservoir of water below the plant.

The reservoir system for growing hydro weed is less work when compared to the wick system.

Besides, it is much easier to set up and to maintain it.
You can place in a kitty litter size tray that has sides of at least 4” high, the plant containers.
You also require filling each individual container 1/3 up from the bottom with clay beads.
Add a hydroponics mix of vermiculite-perlite peat moss up to the top.
Then you can place each container in the tray.
Into the tray, you have to pour hydroponics nutrient water solution so that ¼ of the container is immersed in water. 

To get more budding in short time frame, these methods are best utilized in a greenhouse or indoors.

While using the hydro system, you can also water the plant regularly; this will cause them to Grow Weed even faster. The above mentioned methods are generally made for holding moisture as well as drain much better than soil planting. With the wick as well as reservoir methods of planting the weed, you don’t have to worry about mineral buildup in the soil or lack of root oxygen.

With the above mentioned methods, you can always utilize small containers. Besides, with hydroponics, the plant can easily grow in a ¾ gallon pot and without repotting it. You can simply harvest the plant in the same container. But this may not be in the case of soil planting. With hydroponics, the plant get its nutrients through the nutrient water also the medium utilized allows the oxygen to be distributed throughout the entire plant; a plant becoming root-bound is very rare.